If butter is made from cream, then why is it “unofficially” improper to add cream to a buerre blanc?
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If butter is made from cream, then why is it “unofficially” improper to add cream to a buerre blanc?
Here’s a bit about butter. Use or disuse as desired.
As always, feel free to add your own tips and hints in the comments.
This weeks recipe makes me wonder how the heck the French have less of a problem with heart attacks than the United States. Beurre Blanc is a butter sauce made with a lot of butter. One pound to be precise. Sure there’s a bit of a white wine/shallot reduction, but that’s simply a distraction from the main ingredient.
Did I mention that there’s a lot of butter in this dish?
Much like a great many recipes, there’s a decent story on how Beurre Blanc was discovered. About.com gives the details:
The story takes place around the turn of the century in the kitches of chÃ¢teau of the Marquis de Goulaine. His kitchen staff was preparing for an important dinner under the direction of his head cuisiniÃ¨re Madame ClÃ©mence Lefeuvre. She was very busy preparing the pike and asked an assistant to make a bÃ©rnaise sauce, which she liked to serve with the fish. The assistant forgot to add the tarragon and the egg yolks but there was no time to start over, so ClÃ©mence decided to serve the sauce as it was. After the meal, the Marquis asked ClÃ©mence to come into the dining room where of course she expected to be reprimanded. Instead, he praised her new preparation and gave it the name of “beurre blanc”. ClÃ©mence soon took her new creation and opened her own auberge. Although they can’t agree on the actual birthplace of the sauce, both will tell you that the inclusion of cream is not an “authentic” beurre blanc.
As for what kind of white wine to use, I’d use a sweeter wine, to contrast nicely against the tart of the vinegar. Anything too oakey might be a tad odd to the taste.
Place the shallots, vinegar and white wine in a sauce pan over medium heat. Reduce the wine/vinegar concoction to somewhere between 75-90% of its initial volume.
Turn the heat to high and add the butter all at once. Continously whisk the sauce until all the butter has melted. Be careful here as there is a point of no return where if you heat the sauce too long it will break down into a sort of “infused” clarified butter. Once you get the point where the sauce is creamy in consistency yet still opaque, remove it from the heat.
Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve over your favorite fish.
My knowledge of Indian cuisine is fairly minimal, so forgive me if my ignorance shows with this recipe. In looking over various recipes, I’ve noticed a distinct lack of butter in most butter chicken recipes. Oh there’s some, to be sure, but only a tablespoon or two. I’ve remedied that below.
As with most stew-type recipe, this isn’t the end-all be-all recipe for butter chicken. There are many ways to alter this for your own taste – less tomatoes, more spices, etc., etc.
Also, you can use strictly white meat if you wish, but I’m fond of dark meat, and it works well here. Serve with basmati rice.
In a large glass bowl, mix in the yogurt, chili powder, garam masala, coriander, garlic paste, ginger paste, lemon and salt. Add the chicken to the yogurt melange, coating thoroughly. Cover the glass bowl with saran wrap and place in the refrigerator. Allow the chicken to marinate for a minimum of 3 hours.
Pre heat oven to 300 degrees. Place marinated chicken in a glass baking dish and place in oven for 15 minutes.
Place large skillet over medium heat. Melt the butter. Sautee the onions until translucent. Add the ginger and onion paste and cook for 1-2 minutes. Add the tomato puree and cream. Add the masal, coriander and chilli powder. Add the chicken, and allow to cook for 10-12 minutes. At this point, add the honey if you’re so inclined.
Serve over rice.
UPDATE: LT from the comments stated “Tried this out last night. While I wouldn’t have called it butter chicken, it was quite good. A little more Tikka Masala like than Butter Chicken like. Also, after the 15 minutes in the oven and then the 10-12 minutes on the stove, the chicken was not cooked through and required another 10 minutes on the stove.”
There are several different ways to produce butter. Yesterday, I could have named two. Today, after reading up on the subject, I can name a few more. My appreciation of Harold McGee grows by the day.
These are types of butter production, rather than a complete list of butter products. That’s why I haven’t listed Brown butter, or clarified butter. I’ll get to these types of butter at a later time.
Sometimes my complacency with living in the 21st century makes me forget certain facts that were somewhat important back in the day. Butter provides an excellant example of this. I buy butter, I take butter home, I place said butter in the refrigerator for later use.
Back in the time before refrigerators, butter was a product that had to be used sooner than later, as it tends to turn rancid after a set period of time. Because of this, butter, as we know it, never really took off in areas of Mediterranean Europe. This, even though the butter making process had been known since as far back as perhaps 8000 or 9000 BCE. Butter did take off in areas of the world where either…
This simple difference in climate and technologies helped shaped a great many food cultures we take for granted today. Southern Italian, Greek and Mexican cuisines get their fats from places other than butter. German, Northern French, and a great majority of Indian cuisines (in the form of Ghee) have a great many dishes where the fats come from butter. I love this kind of “cuisine etymology”, where the type of food one eats is dependant upon such a minute variable as the ability to store butter for an extended period of time.
Speaking of Ghee (and how many times have you heard THAT segue? None, I bet), when talking about butter in history, ghee has to be mentioned. It was recognized early as a very important component of life in what is now present day India and Pakistan. So much so, that it made it into various religious rituals. Sound familiar? That’s because the Catholics ascribed the same level of significance to olive oil. You can say a lot about human nature, but one thing is for certain – We humans love our fats.
Expect more on butter (including a few select recipes) over the next few weeks.
Technorati Tags: Butter
I include this as another ethiopian spice that you may need if you wish to cook within their cuisine. It is clarified butter simmered with various spices, dependant upon the taste of the person who makes it. So consider this a recipe for Niter Kebbeh, rather than the recipe, as there are as many types of this recipe as there are types of marinara in Italy.
Combine the onions, garlic and ginger into a bit of a salsa. Set aside.
Melt butter over low heat and stir, making sure the color of the butter does not change. Skim the foam off the top of the butter completely and add the onion/garlic/ginger melange and the rest of the ingredients to the butter. Allow to simmer for 15-30 minutes.
Remove from heat and allow the solids to settle to the bottom. Strain into a storage container. Use as needed.